Most homeowners get at least one bad contractor quote. Some get burned badly. The difference between a smooth installation and a nightmare usually comes down to the questions you ask — and when you ask them — before signing a contract. Here are the 20 questions that matter most.
Licensing & Insurance Questions
Ask these before you discuss anything else. A contractor who hesitates on these questions is a red flag.
- "What is your contractor license number?"
Write it down. Then verify it yourself at your state's licensing board website. Don't accept "I'll send it over" — get it on the spot. Use our verify contractor tool. - "Do you carry general liability insurance and workers compensation?"
Ask for the certificate. If a worker is injured on your property and the contractor has no workers comp, you may be liable. Ask your homeowner's insurance agent if you're unsure. - "How long has your company been operating under this license?"
A license held for 6 months is different from one held for 10 years. New licenses aren't automatically bad, but they warrant additional due diligence. - "Are you the license holder or is someone else?"
Some companies operate under a license holder who is rarely on site. Know who is legally responsible for the work.
Product & Code Compliance Questions
- "What is the Florida Product Approval number for the product you're recommending?"
Every code-compliant product has an FL number. If they can't give you one, the product may not be code-approved. - "Is this product rated for my county's wind zone?"
The product approval specifies the maximum design wind speed. Make sure it covers your county's requirement — especially if you're in Miami-Dade or Broward HVHZ. - "Does this product carry Miami-Dade NOA?"
Ask this if you're in Miami-Dade or Broward County. Required by law. - "What size configurations are covered by the product approval for my openings?"
A product approval covers specific size ranges. If your opening is outside those ranges, a custom solution is needed — and that changes the price and approval status.
Permit & Inspection Questions
- "Will you pull the permit?"
The answer should always be yes. Never pull your own permit for a contractor — it transfers liability to you. A contractor who asks you to pull the permit is a major red flag. - "What does the permit cover and what will the inspection check?"
A good contractor can explain exactly what the county inspector will verify. If they seem vague about the inspection process, that's a warning sign. - "How long does the permit process take in my county?"
Permit timelines vary from a few days to 4–6 weeks. Know this upfront so you can plan realistically, especially before hurricane season.
Contract & Payment Questions
- "What does your written contract include?"
At minimum: scope of work, specific product with model number and FL approval number, total price, payment schedule, start date, completion date, permit responsibility, and warranty terms. - "What is your payment structure?"
A typical structure is 10–30% deposit, balance on completion after inspection passes. Never pay more than 50% upfront. Full payment before inspection is a red flag. - "What is your warranty — labor and product separately?"
Manufacturer product warranties (5–10 years typically) are separate from the contractor's labor warranty (1–2 years is standard). Get both in writing. - "What happens if the job goes over the quoted price?"
Change orders should require written authorization. A contractor who can freely increase your price is a risk.
Installation & Timeline Questions
- "Who will be on site doing the work — your employees or subcontractors?"
Subcontractors are common and not automatically a problem. But know whether the people doing the work are covered by the contractor's insurance and license. - "How long will the installation take?"
A whole-house accordion shutter install on a typical 2,000 sq ft home takes 1–3 days. If they say one day, ask how many installers will be on site. - "What do I need to do to prepare?"
Move furniture, clear exterior access, be home for final walkthrough — get this in writing so there are no surprises. - "What is your process if something needs to be corrected after installation?"
Ask specifically: "If the inspector finds an issue, who pays for the correction and how quickly will you fix it?" - "Can you provide references from jobs completed in the last 12 months in my county?"
Recent references in your specific county mean they know local code and inspector requirements. Old references or references from a different county are less useful.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many quotes should I get?
Get at least 3 written quotes for any job over $3,000. The range between the lowest and highest quote for identical work is typically 25–40%. Three quotes gives you enough data to identify outliers — both the contractor who is cutting corners to come in low and the one padding margin because they assume you won't shop around.
What should a written quote include?
A proper written quote should include: your name and address, specific product with manufacturer and model number, FL product approval number, total square footage of protection, itemized pricing by opening if possible, permit fees, total price including all labor and materials, and an estimated timeline. A verbal quote or a quote with just a total number is not sufficient.
Is the cheapest quote always the worst?
Not automatically — but a quote that is significantly lower than the others (more than 20–25%) deserves scrutiny. Ask specifically what product they're using and verify its FL approval number. Low quotes often involve non-code-compliant products, unlicensed subcontractors, or the intent to add change orders after you've signed.