DIY materials list and how-to, what to look for when hiring someone, how to find a roofer — and how to avoid the scammers that follow every storm.




Never get on a damaged roof alone, in the rain, or after dark. If the roof structure feels soft or spongy underfoot, get off immediately — the decking may be compromised. If you have a steep pitch (over 6/12) or the damage is near the ridge, hire a professional. No amount of water damage is worth a fall. Always wear a safety harness anchored to a structural point, not just nailed into damaged decking.
This is your most important purchase. 6-mil tarps are sold at hardware stores but degrade in days under Florida's UV and wind. Go 10-mil or thicker. Size up generously — you need 4 feet of overhang on every side of the damaged area. A 20×30 ft tarp covers most residential roof sections.
🛒 Shop AmazonUsed to sandwich and anchor the tarp edges to the roof deck. Fold the tarp edge over a 2×4, lay a second 2×4 on top, and screw or nail through both boards and the tarp into the roof deck every 12 inches. This creates a sealed edge that resists wind lift far better than nailing through the tarp alone, which always tears.
🛒 Shop AmazonRoofing screws hold better than nails in wind — once in, they don't back out. Use 3-inch screws to penetrate through the 2×4 sandwich, tarp, and into the roof deck below. Ring-shank nails are the nail equivalent and hold better than smooth-shank. A screw gun or impact driver drives them fast. Place fasteners every 12 inches along each 2×4 board.
🛒 Shop AmazonYou'll drive 50–100 screws through lumber into a roof deck while balancing on a pitched surface. A cordless impact driver is the right tool — more torque, less wrist fatigue, and no cord to trip over. Keep two batteries charged so you're never stopped waiting for a charge mid-job. A standard drill will work but takes longer and tires you out faster.
🛒 Shop AmazonA 24-foot fiberglass extension ladder reaches a standard single-story Florida home safely. For two-story homes, use a 32-foot ladder. Fiberglass is essential — aluminum conducts electricity and downed power lines are common after storms. Set the ladder at a 75-degree angle (one foot out for every four feet of height), secure the feet, and have someone hold the base while you climb.
🛒 Shop AmazonA roof safety harness is not optional — it's the difference between a bad day and a fatal one. You're working on a wet, possibly damaged surface while tired, stressed, and distracted. A construction fall harness anchors to a structural ridge strap or anchor point and stops a fall before it becomes fatal. OSHA requires fall protection for anyone working at heights over 6 feet — and your roof is significantly higher than that.
🛒 Shop AmazonWet asphalt shingles are extremely slippery, and wet tile is worse. Rubber-soled work boots with a lug sole grip the roof surface far better than sneakers or smooth-soled shoes. Many roofers use dedicated roofing boots with a soft rubber sole that conforms to shingles. At minimum, wear clean rubber-soled work boots. Never go on a roof in sandals, flip-flops, or slick-soled shoes.
🛒 Shop AmazonTarp edges are sharp and can cut — the folded polyethylene edge has enough tension to slice skin as it's being pulled into place. Roofing nails, exposed metal flashing, and broken shingle tabs all cause lacerations. Leather palm work gloves protect against cuts while still allowing enough grip to handle tools and lumber on a pitched surface.
🛒 Shop AmazonMeasure the damaged area before buying tarps so you purchase the right size. A chalk line helps you mark straight lines on the roof deck for consistent board placement and ensures the tarp edge boards are parallel — a tarp installed crooked lifts and flaps in wind, eventually failing at the seams. Measure twice, cut once applies to tarping too.
🛒 Shop AmazonPower will likely be out. You may need to assess damage at dawn, dusk, or in a shaded attic. A hands-free headlamp keeps both hands on tools and the ladder. 300+ lumens handles most conditions. Keep it charged with fresh batteries before every storm season. A phone flashlight is not a substitute — you need both hands free when working at height.
🛒 Shop AmazonWalk around the exterior and photograph every damaged section from the ground. If you can safely access the roof, take close-up video of the damage area. This documentation is your insurance claim foundation — get it before anything is moved, covered, or changed. Email the photos to yourself immediately so they're timestamped and backed up to the cloud.
Measure the damaged area. Add 4 feet on all sides for overhang — the tarp must extend 4 feet past the edge of all damage in every direction. If damage runs to the ridge, the tarp should go 4 feet over the ridge onto the other side. Cut the tarp on the ground before going up — handling an uncut 20×30 ft tarp on a roof in any wind is dangerous.
Lay a 2×4 along the top (ridge-side) edge of where the tarp will sit. Drape the tarp over it so 12–18 inches folds back over the board. Place a second 2×4 on top of the folded edge, creating a sandwich. This is the anchor point — the tarp cannot pull out from between two boards the way it can pull through nails alone.
Drive 3-inch screws through the top 2×4, through the folded tarp, through the bottom 2×4, and into the roof deck below — every 12 inches along the board. Then unroll the tarp down the slope, pull it taut, and repeat the sandwich and screw process at the bottom edge and both sides. Pull the tarp tight before screwing each side — a loose tarp flaps, tears, and fails in wind.
Walk the perimeter of the tarped area and check for any gaps, lifted edges, or sections where the tarp isn't fully covering the damaged area. Look from below inside the attic if possible — light coming through indicates a gap. Smooth any wrinkles that could collect water. A properly installed tarp lies flat, is drum-tight, and has no visible gaps at any edge.
Inspect your tarp after every rain event. Wind and UV degrade polyethylene quickly in Florida. Look for holes, tears at the board edges, lifted corners, and pooled water. A pooled section means the tarp has sagged — the weight of standing water can collapse a weakened section and re-expose the damage. Replace any tarp showing UV fading or cracking immediately — don't wait until it fails during a storm.
After a presidential disaster declaration, FEMA's Operation Blue Roof installs free temporary blue plastic sheeting on damaged roofs for eligible homeowners. Register at DisasterAssistance.gov or call 1-888-766-3258. You must own and occupy the home as your primary residence. The program is available while supplies and personnel last — register immediately after a declaration, not weeks later.
Steep roofs, two-story homes, significant structural damage, elderly homeowners, or anyone working alone should hire professional tarpers rather than attempting it themselves. The post-storm tarping market moves fast — prices are highest in the first 48 hours after a storm and drop significantly after day 3 as more crews arrive in the area.
Tarping is also one of the most scam-prone post-storm services. Knowing what legitimate tarpers look like — and what red flags to watch for — is the most important thing you can do before calling anyone.
Contact your state's contractor licensing board immediately. In Florida: file a complaint at myfloridalicense.com and contact the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services at 1-800-435-7352. Also contact your insurance company — they've seen these scams and can advise on next steps. File a police report if money was taken without work performed.
After a major storm, wait times for licensed roofing contractors in Florida run 3 to 9 months. The demand surge is immediate and the licensed contractor supply is fixed. This is the environment scammers thrive in — homeowners desperate for help, supply constrained, and standard verification steps skipped under pressure.
Your tarp buys you time. Use it to find the right roofer rather than the first one who shows up at your door.
Search pre-screened, licensed roofing contractors in your area. Angi verifies licenses and checks reviews before listing contractors — a far safer starting point than a door-to-door solicitor or a random Google ad.
Find Roofers on Angi → HomeAdvisor Roofers →
In Florida, roofing contractors must hold a state-issued Roofing Contractor license (RC). Look up any contractor at myfloridalicense.com before agreeing to anything. Verify the license is active, not expired, and has no disciplinary actions against it. An unlicensed contractor's work cannot be permitted or inspected — which voids your insurance coverage for that repair.
Ask for a Certificate of Insurance naming you as an additional insured for the duration of the job. If a worker falls on your property and the contractor has no workers' compensation, you may be liable for their medical bills. Call the insurance company on the certificate to verify the policy is current — certificates can be falsified.
Even if every roofer has a 6-month backlog, get three estimates before committing. Estimates reveal the scope of work planned, materials being used, and payment terms — differences between estimates tell you a lot. The lowest bid isn't always the best, and a contractor who can start immediately post-storm while everyone else is booked 6 months out deserves extra scrutiny, not fast trust.
Florida law limits advance payments on residential contracts to 10% of the total or $1,000, whichever is less, before work begins. A typical legitimate structure: 10% deposit, 40% at material delivery, 40% at substantial completion, 10% at final inspection and punch list sign-off. Never pay the final 10% until you have inspected the finished work and it passes inspection.
In most Florida jurisdictions, roofing replacement requires a permit. The contractor should pull this permit — if they suggest skipping it to save money or time, walk away. Unpermitted roofing work fails at resale inspection and may not be covered by your insurance. As the property owner, you can verify a permit was pulled by searching your county's building department online.
An AOB is a document that transfers your insurance claim rights to the contractor. Once signed, the contractor negotiates directly with your insurer, controls the settlement, and you lose visibility into what's being claimed on your behalf. Florida law restricts AOBs, but they're still used. If a contractor makes signing an AOB a condition of doing the work, find a different contractor.
FRSA (frsa.org) maintains a directory of member contractors who have agreed to a professional code of conduct. Membership doesn't guarantee quality, but it's a meaningful filter — scam operations don't join trade associations. Also check the Better Business Bureau (bbb.org) for complaints filed after previous storm events in your area.
Compare licensed, insured roofing contractors with verified reviews before committing to anyone. Takes 2 minutes and could save you from a 4-figure mistake.
Search Angi Roofers → Search Thumbtack →Hurricane shutters prevent the roof damage that leads to tarping emergencies. Get a free estimate and see your insurance savings.
Free Shutter Estimate → Water Damage Cleanup Guide →