Three methods any homeowner can tackle — storm panels, clear polycarbonate panels, and plywood. Full tool lists, step-by-step instructions, and code compliance notes for every coastal state.
Three solid DIY options — each with a different trade-off between cost, light, and effort. Here's how they compare side by side.
| Method | Material cost | Lets light in? | Skill level | Install time | Code approved? | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aluminum storm panels | $3–$8 / sq ft | No | Beginner | 2–4 hrs / home | Yes | Budget, strongest wind rating |
| Steel storm panels | $4–$10 / sq ft | No | Beginner | 2–4 hrs / home | Yes | Max strength, hurricane zones |
| Clear polycarbonate panels | $8–$18 / sq ft | Yes | Beginner | 3–5 hrs / home | Yes* | Light, visibility, less claustrophobic |
| Plywood (5/8" CDX) | $1–$2 / sq ft | No | Beginner | 3–6 hrs / home | Varies | Last resort, storm watch only |
* Polycarbonate panels must be NOA (Notice of Acceptance) or FL-number certified in Florida HVHZ. Storm-Busters and rated Tuftex panels qualify. Verify your product's certification before purchasing.
The most common DIY shutter in Florida and the Gulf Coast. Pre-cut panels hang on anchor bolts permanently set in your walls.
Measure the width and height of each window and door opening — outside edge of the casing or frame. Round up to the nearest inch. Order panels 1–2 inches wider than each opening so they overlap the wall surface on both sides.
Hold a panel up to the opening and mark the wall through the panel's pre-drilled holes. Anchors should be no more than 12 inches apart along the sides and top, and every 8–10 inches along the bottom (takes the most wind load). Mark at least 1.5 inches from the edge of the opening.
Use your hammer drill with a 3/8" masonry bit. Drill holes 2.5–3 inches deep. Blow dust out of each hole with compressed air or a bulb blower — a dusty hole will cause the anchor to fail. Wear safety glasses — concrete dust is nasty.
Tap concrete sleeve anchors into each hole with a hammer until the flange is flush with the wall. Set the anchor by tightening with a socket wrench until snug (expands the sleeve inside the hole). Leave the bolt sticking out 1–1.5 inches to accept the panel and wing nut.
If using a header track system, mount the aluminum channel across the top of the opening first using the same anchor bolt method. The bottom lip of the track should sit about 1/4 inch above the top of the opening. This is what the tops of your panels slide into — no top bolts to wrestle with during a storm warning.
Slide the first panel into the header track (or over the top bolts), then align the bottom holes with the lower anchor bolts. Thread on fender washers and wing nuts. Tighten by hand until snug — then one quarter turn more with a wrench. Panels should be tight against the wall with no rattle. Overlap each panel one corrugation over the previous.
After testing the fit, remove all panels. Use a paint pen to mark each panel on the back: window location, top/bottom, and left/right orientation. Store flat or standing in your garage — never lean aluminum panels on their corrugated edges for extended periods. Spray exposed bolt threads with anti-corrosion spray before storing.
Same bolt-and-wing-nut installation as storm panels — but lets natural light through. Storm-Busters and Tuftex PolyCarb are the two most common brands sold at Home Depot and Lowe's.
Unlike aluminum panels which come pre-punched, polycarbonate sheets need to be cut to size and drilled. Do all cutting and drilling before mounting anchors. Use a fine-tooth circular saw blade and cut slowly to prevent cracking. Drill bolt holes with a step bit for clean edges — avoid standard twist bits which can crack poly.
Hold each cut panel against the opening and mark anchor locations through your pre-drilled holes. This is especially important with poly because unlike storm panels, there's no standard hole spacing — your holes define where the anchors go.
Drill anchors and hang panels exactly as described in the storm panel method above. Use large fender washers (2" diameter minimum) to distribute clamping force — polycarbonate is more flexible than metal and can pull through an undersized washer under wind load.
For multi-day deployments, run a bead of clear weatherstrip foam tape along the top and side edges where the panel meets the wall. Keeps wind-driven rain from spraying through gaps. Removes cleanly after the storm with no wall damage.
The original hurricane shutter. Cheap, available anywhere, and effective — but heavy, hard to store, and not reusable indefinitely. Best as a backup when you don't have panels pre-cut and ready.
Cut each sheet to overlap your window opening by 4 inches on all sides. Label each sheet clearly on the back: window location, which side is up, which side faces out. Store stacked flat off the ground on 2×4 spacers in your garage. Seal all edges with exterior latex paint to prevent swelling.
Set anchor bolts permanently into your walls now (same method as storm panels). When a storm approaches, your plywood just drops over the bolts — no drilling during a storm. Bolts should be every 12 inches, minimum 1.5 inches from the edge of the plywood.
Mount horizontal 2×4 spacers between the plywood and the wall, running the full width of each sheet. This keeps the plywood from flexing and pressing directly against the glass. Without standoffs, wind pressure can bow the plywood into the window and break it — defeating the purpose.
Lift each sheet with a helper and hang it over the anchor bolts, pressing it tight to the standoffs. Thread on fender washers and nuts. For CBS homes without pre-set anchors, drive 3" concrete screws through the plywood directly into the block every 12 inches. Seal edges with duct tape or foam weatherstrip to keep wind-driven rain out.
Remove plywood within 24–48 hours after the storm passes. Wipe dry, stand upright in a ventilated area, and let dry completely before stacking for storage. Plywood that's stored wet delaminates — you'll lose it before next season. Re-seal all edges with exterior paint after each use.
Most coastal states allow DIY panel installation without a permit for existing bolt systems. But Florida's HVHZ counties and some HOA communities have additional requirements. Here's what to know.
The questions we hear most from homeowners doing this for the first time.
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